St. Therese of Lisieux Doll Crochet Pattern

Materials:

• 2.0 mm hook

• 2.75 mm hook

• 3.25 mm hook

• Yarn (I use cotton yarn, weight 4): tan/beige, ivory, medium brown, dark brown, white, black

• Any weight 2 yarn: pink, green (for roses)

• Polyester fiber stuffing

• 2 8 mm safety eyes (Safety eyes are not recommended for small kids, but you may use black thread or eyes to embroider eyes if you prefer).

• Stitch marker (to keep track of rows/rounds)

• Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)

• Black embroidery thread

• Optional: blush for cheeks, pins for placing parts together before sewing

Skills:

• Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

• Chain (ch)

• Working in rounds

• Working in rows

• Working in a spiral

• Single crochet (sc)

• Double Crochet (dc)

• Increase (inc.)

• Invisible decrease (dec.)

• Slip stitch (sl st)

• Double crochet increase (dc inc.)

• Half double crochet (hdc)

• Color changing

• Crocheting two pieces together (you will have to make two legs and join them together with chains and single crochet stitches, and then continue to crochet the torso).

• Sewing amigurumi parts together

• Creating a border

• Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

The finished doll is approximately 6.5 inches tall.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

I choose to begin by chaining two and then completing 6 sc starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.

We will start by crocheting the whole body and then crocheting the gown. If you wish, you can start with the dress so that you can place it on the body after completing the neck and before crocheting the head. This might be a bit easier if you’re concerned about fitting the gown over the body (I have never had any problems doing so, but it does take a bit of manipulation).

Leg (make two)

Use a 2.75 mm hook and begin with tan yarn.

Lightly stuff as you go.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)

R 3-13 (11 rounds): 9 sc (9)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing. Create a second leg and do not finish off. Row 14 begins on the second leg.

Next you will connect both legs together with a chain of three. You will crochet on each side of the chain and continue crocheting in regular rounds as you complete the torso. If you have not connected doll legs this way before, I’d recommend reading the directions for round 14 and looking at the pictures before beginning. This isn’t very hard, but if you haven’t done it before, it might get confusing if you just begin following directions without understanding the process.

R 14: ch 3 and insert hook into the last stitch you created before finishing off on your first leg. (See the picture below). Complete 9 sc around the first leg. On one side of the three chains, complete 3 sc. Complete 9 sc. On the other side of thee chains, complete 3 sc. (24)

This is right after completing three chains and one single crochet connecting to your first leg. (I took out my hook so you can see better, but you can see the little loop where my hook would be.) Before continuing. Make sure you can clearly identify the three chains you just created. After you complete 9 sc all around your first leg, you will be back at this chain. Complete three single crochets in the sides of the chain labeled “1, 2, and 3.” Next, you will complete 9 sc all around the second leg, and you will reach the chain again. You will complete single crochets in the remaining sides of the chain, 4, 5 and 6.

Torso, Head, and Neck

(Stuff as you go. Try not to overstuff so that it does not show through the stitches. I stuff a little extra in the neck to keep the neck and head straight. After a few rounds of torso, I used the tail from the first leg to sew any little holes that may have resulted when I joined the two legs.)

R 15-16 (2 rounds): 24 sc (24)

R 17: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 18-24 (7 rounds): 18 sc (18)

R 25: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 26: dec. x 6 (6)

R 27: 6 sc (6)

Reminder: as you continue to crochet and stuff as you go, place extra stuffing in the neck to ensure it stands up properly. The veil will make the head a bit heavy and prone to bobbling. (Another option is to eliminate round 27. Making the neck shorter will give the head more support and will result in a slightly different appearance of your doll as well).

R 28: inc. x 6 (12)

R 29: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 30: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 31: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 32-37 (6 rounds): 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes or embroider eyes with black yarn/thread where you wish. I insert them between rounds 34 and 35, about 5 stitches apart (about 4-5 visible stitches, not including stitches covered by the eyes). Use black thread to embroider eyelashes. Embroider nose where you wish, slightly below and between the two eyes. To do so, take a piece of yarn finishing needle and wrap around several times to create a small bump that is the nose. After I create my desired size, I tie the two ends of yarn together inside of the head to keep secure. Apply a small amount of blush on cheeks.

R 38: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)

R 39: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 40: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 41: dec. x 6 (6)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2)

Stuffing is not necessary. Use a 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2-11 (10 rounds): 6 sc (6)

R 12: Fold arm in half so that stitches line up, crochet both halves together with three single crochets. (3)

F.o. and leave a tail. Sew arms onto the body. I sew around round 24, right before the neck begins to form.

Cap

Use a 2.75 mm hook and white yarn.

(If you crochet the cap tightly and/or the head is stuffed very firmly, you may want to use a 3.25 mm hook.)

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 6: (9 sc, inc.) x 3 (33)

R 7-9 (3 rounds): 33 sc (33)

R 10: 11 sc, ch 11, sk 11, 11 sc (33)

R 11: 11 sc, complete 11 hdc on the 11 chains, 11 sc (33)

F.o. and leave a long tail. Use the tail to sew the cap onto the head.

Note: the little gap where the arrow is pointing will be covered at the veil. You may even sew the veil onto the cap to make it cover it more securely if you prefer.

Veil

Use black yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.

Row 1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (8)

R 2: ch 2, 8 dc inc., connect with sl st (16)

R 3: ch 2, 16 dc inc., connect with sl st (32)

R 4: ch 2, 20 dc (20)

R 5-11 (7 rows): ch 2, turn, 20 dc (20)

F.o. and weave in ends. Sew the veil onto the head.

Dress

Use medium brown yarn and 3.25 mm hook.

Crochet in rounds (not a spiral) connecting each round with a slip stitch at the end every time.

R 1: ch 21, sl st to the first ch to create a circle (make sure your chain isn’t twisted before continuing)

R 2: ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 3: ch 1, 5 sc, ch 4, sk (skip) 4 stitches, 4 sc, ch 4, sk 4 stitches, 4 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 4-8 (5 rounds): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 9: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x 3, connect with sl st (24)

R 10: ch 1, (7 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (27)

R 11-25 (15 rounds): ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

F.o. and weave in ends.

The back side is the side with the crease where you connected your rounds with a slip stitch each time. (The reason the front has fewer stitches than the back is so that the arms are naturally pushed forward a bit, making it easier for them to hold the cross in front of her).

Sleeves (make 2)

(The picture shows white yarn because it is from a different pattern that uses an identical technique).

R 1: Sl stitch to one of the stitches on the sleeves. Ch 1. Create a circle of 8 single crochets in the arm hole: on the 4 bottom stitches (where you originally made your chains) and on the 4 top stitches (see picture below for where to place your first round of single crochets). Connect with a slip stitch.

R 2-8 (7 rounds): ch 1, 8 sc, connect with sl st (8)

F.o. and weave in the ends. Place your finger in the sleeves to stretch them out a bit, preparing them for arms to be squeezed through. Place the dress over the legs of your doll and gently tug it up. Fit arms into sleeves.

Shawl

Use 2.75 mm hook and ivory yarn.

R 1: ch 22, starting from the 3rd ch from the hook, complete 20 hdc (20)

R 2: ch 2, turn, 2 dc inc., 16 dc, 2 dc inc. (24)

R 3: ch 2, turn, 2 dc inc., 20 dc, 2 dc inc. (28)

R 4: ch 2, turn, 2 dc inc., 24 dc, 2 dc inc. (32)

R 5-7 (3 rows): ch 2, turn, 32 dc (32)

F.o. and weave in ends.

To create the border, sl stitch gold yarn to one top corner of the shawl. Complete 20 sc along this horizontal side (1 sc per chain), 13 sc along each vertical side (1 along row 1 of hdcs and 2 along each row of dcs), and 32 sc along the bottom horizontal side (1 sc per sc). I also made 2 sc in each corner (It isn’t critical you use the exact same number of single crochets I did on the border, so long as it looks even as you’re happy with it!)

Leave a tail of a few inches. Wrap the shawl around the doll’s shoulders and use the tail to connect to the other corner. Sew the two front top corners together with your tapestry needle. Weave in any loose ends.

Cross

Use a 2.75 mm hook.

Vertical Part

Row 1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (5)

R 2-10 ( 9 rows): 5 sc (5)

F.o. leave a tail you can later use to sew the cross to the hand.

Horizontal Part

R 1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (5)

R 2-8 (7 rows): 5 sc (5)

F.o. and sew onto the vertical part in a cross formation.

Rose (make 1)

Use 2.00 mm hook and pink weight 2 yarn.

R 1: ch 10

R 2: Turn and beginning with the 3rd ch from the hook complete a dc. Ch 2. Sl stitch in the next stitch. For the remainder of the round: (ch 2, dc in the next stitch, ch 2, sl st in the next stitch) x 3

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Roll it up so it forms a rose shape and sew it into place.

Leaf (make 2)

Use 2.0 mm hook and weight 2 green yarn.

R 1: ch 2, in 2nd ch from the hook complete: sc, 2 hdc, dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st to the first sc you made.

Sew the leaves and then the rose onto the cross near the middle.

The end!

Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets›

You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.