St. Patrick Doll Crochet Pattern

Materials:

• 2.75 mm hook

• 2.25 mm hook

• Cotton weight 4 yarn: tan/beige, white, gold, green, gray. (I use an acrylic yarn for the gold parts only because I like the color more than my cotton gold yarn options.)

• Any weight 2 yarn: green

• Polyester fiber stuffing

• 2 8mm safety eyes (Safety eyes are not recommended for small kids, but you may use black thread or eyes to embroider eyes if you prefer).

• Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)

• Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)

Skills:

• Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

• Chain (ch)

• Working in rounds

• Working in a spiral

• Single crochet (sc)

• Increase (inc.)

• Invisible decrease (dec.)

• Slip stitch (sl st)

• Triple crochet (tr)

• Double crochet (dc)

• Half double crochet (hdc)

• Half double crochet increase (hdc inc.)

• Color changing

• Crocheting two pieces together (you will have to make two legs and join them together with chains and single crochet stitches, and then continue to crochet the torso).

• Sewing amigurumi parts together

• Creating a border

• Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

The finished doll is approximately 7.5 inches tall, including the crown.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

I choose to begin by chaining two and then completing 6 sc starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.

We will start by crocheting the whole body and then crocheting the gown. If you wish, you can start with the gown so that you can place it on the body after completing the neck and before crocheting the head. This might be a bit easier if you’re concerned about fitting the gown over the body (It is a tight fit).

Leg (make two)

Use a 2.75 mm hook and tan yarn.

Lightly stuff as you go

Row 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)

R 3-13 (11 rows): 9 sc (9)

F.o. and leave a tail for sewing. Create a second leg and do not finish off. Row 14 begins on the second leg.

Next you will connect both legs together with a chain of three. You will crochet on each side of the chain and continue crocheting in regular rounds as you complete the torso. If you have not connected doll legs this way before, I’d recommend reading the directions for row 14 and looking at the pictures before beginning. This isn’t very hard, but if you haven’t done it before, it might get confusing if you just begin following directions without understanding the process.

R 14: ch 3 and insert hook into the last stitch you created before finishing off on your first leg. (See the picture below). Complete 9 sc around the first leg. On one side of the three chains, complete 3 sc. Complete 9 sc. On the other side of thee chains, complete 3 sc. (24)

Torso, Head, and Neck

Stuff as you go. Try not to overstuff so that it does not show through the stitches. I stuff a little extra in the neck to keep the neck and head straight. After a few rows of torso, I used the tail from the first leg to sew any little holes that may have resulted when I joined the two legs.

R 15-16 (2 rows): 24 sc (24)

R 17: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 18-24 (7 rows): 18 sc (18)

R 25: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 26: dec. x 6 (6)

R 27: 6 sc (6)

R 28: inc. x 6 (12)

R 29: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 30: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 31: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 32-37 (6 rows): 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes or sew eyes with black yarn/thread where you wish. I insert them between rows 34 and 35, about 5 stitches apart (about 4-5 visible stitches, not including stitches covered by the eyes). Embroider nose where you wish, slightly below and between the two eyes. To do so, take a piece of yarn finishing needle and wrap around several times to create a small bump that is the nose. After I create my desired size, I tie the two ends of yarn together inside of the head to keep secure.

R 38: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)

R 39: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 40: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 41: dec. x 6 (6)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2)

Stuffing is not necessary. Use a 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2-11 (10 rows): 6 sc (6)

R 12: Fold arm in half so that stitches line up, crochet both halves together with three single crochets. (3)

F.o. and leave a tail. Sew arms onto the body. I sew around row 24, right before the neck begins to form.

Hair

Use 2.75 mm hook and gray yarn.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 6: (14 sc, inc.) x 2 (32)

R 7-9 (3 rows): 32 sc (32)

R 10: (sc, ch 6, starting from 2nd ch from hook complete 5 sc back down chain, sc) x 16. Sl st to the next stitch to make the hair cap even.

Leave a long tail and use the tail to sew the hair onto the head. Take another piece of yarn to sew the strands down onto the head to frame the face, as desired.

Beard

Use 2.75 mm hook and gray yarn.

R 1: ch 14, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, complete 5 sc, ch 3, sk 3, 5 sc (13)

R 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, 3 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc (13)

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the beard onto the face, right below the nose.

Crown

Use 2.75 mm hook and gold yarn.

R 1: ch 2, complete an inc. in the 2nd ch from the hook (2)

R 2: ch 1, turn, 2 inc. (4)

R 3: ch 1, turn, (sc, inc.) x 2 (6)

R 4: ch 1, turn, (2 sc, inc.) x 2 (8)

R 5: ch 1, turn, (3 sc, inc.) x 2 (10)

Ch 25 or how many chains it takes necessary for it to wrap around the head. Connect back to the other bottom corner of the crown with a sl st. Don’t finish off yet, but instead, continue to work a border of 5 sc crochet up one side of the triangle (the front part of the crown) and 5 sc back down the triangle.

Next, moving in the same direction, complete 25 sc in the chain stitches all the way around. Sl st to the next stitch. F.o. and leave a long tail. Use the tail to sew the crown (all around the band) onto the head.

Gown

Use 2.75 mm hook and white yarn.

Crochet in rounds (not a spiral) connecting each round with a slip stitch at the end every time. The gown is tight-fitting. You may want to crochet with slightly less tension that you used for the body, or use a slightly larger hook. Check the fit around row 5 or so to make sure it can still fit over the doll in case you need to change your hook size/adjust tension.

R 1: ch 21, sl st to the first ch to create a circle (make sure your chain isn’t twisted before continuing)

R 2-3 (2 rows): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 4: ch 1, 5 sc, ch 4, sk (skip) 4 stitches, 4 sc, ch 4, sk 4 stitches, 4 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 5-9 (5 rows): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 10: ch 1, (6 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (24)

R 11-12: (2 rows): ch 1, 24 sc, connect with sl st (24)

R 13: ch 1, (7 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (27)

R 14-25: (12 rows): ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

At this point, hold your gown up to your doll to make sure you like the length, keeping in mind you still have one more row to go. Add more rows if necessary.

Switch to gold yarn.

R 26: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Sleeves

Use 2.75 mm hook and white yarn.

Once again, you may want to crochet slightly looser than you did the body or use a slightly larger hook. After a few rows, check to make sure it’s a good fit for the arms of your doll and modify your hook size/tension if necessary.

R 1: Sl st to one of the stitches along the sleeve. Ch 1. Create a circle of 10 sc in the arm hole: on the 4 bottom stitches (where you originally made your chains), on the 4 top stitches, and 1 in the gap on each side. Connect with a slip stitch. (10)

R 2-8 (7 rows): ch 1, 10 sc, connect with sl st (10)

Switch to gold yarn.

R 9: ch 1, 10 sc, connect with sl st (10)

F.o. and weave in the ends. Place your finger in the sleeves to stretch them out a bit, preparing them for arms to be squeezed through. Place the gown over the legs of your doll and gently tug it up. Fit arms into sleeves.

Green Vestment

Use 2.75 mm hook, green yarn. You may need to adjust your hook in between certain rows to prevent your work from getting twisted. At certain points, you will be crocheting in the "wrong" direction (counterclockwise instead of clockwise) You can flip your work inside out as necessary if this bothers you.

R 1: ch 22, starting from the 3rd ch from the hook, complete 20 hdc (20)

R 2: ch 1, turn, 1 hdc inc., 18 hdc, 1 hdc inc. Working in the same direction, ch 8 and sl st to the first hdc of row 2. (30)

R 3-5 (3 rows): ch 1, turn, beginning with the st you just slip stitched, complete 30 hdc all the way around, connect with sl st in the first hdc you made in row 3 (30)

R 6: ch 1 turn, beginning with the st you just slip stitched, complete 22 hdc (22)

R 7-10 (4 rows): ch 1, turn, 22 hdc (22)

R 11: ch 1, turn, hdc inc., 22 hdc, hdc inc. (24)

R 12-15 (4 rows): ch 1, turn, 24 hdc (24)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Next you will create a border on both top and bottom of your vestment. Obviously, you will be working in a square: begin in one corner and create a horizontal side, turn your work to complete the vertical side, turn your work to complete the 2nd horizontal side, turn your work to complete the 2nd vertical side, and sl st to the first sc you made. Repeat for the top of the vestment. The directions below are not step-by-step directions, but an explanation of how many single crochets I worked on each side for both the top and bottom of the vestment.

Feel free to modify the number of single crochets based upon your preference. Use gold yarn to sl st to the bottom corner. On each horizontal end, create 1 sc in each stitch across (24 sc on the bottom and 8 sc once you get to the top horizontal end). Create 2 sc in each corner and 22 sc evenly spaced along each vertical side (that is 2 sc per row of hdcs). After completing the last edge, sl st to the first sc you made. F.o.

Next, sl st to the top corner of the vestment. On each horizontal end, create 1 sc in each ch across (8 sc on the bottom and 20 once you get to the top horizontal end). Create 4 sc in each corner and 2 sc along each vertical side. F.o.

Using gold yarn, embroider a small cross on the front of the vestment. Weave in any loose ends. Place the gown over the legs of your doll and gently tug it up.

Staff

Use gold yarn and a 2.75 hook. Feel free to modify the length (by adding or subtracting rows) or width (by completing less or greater than 5 stitches starting in row 1) of your staff, as desired.

R 1: ch 2, 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (5)

R 2-30 (29 rows): 5 sc (5).

F.o. and leave a long tail. Bend the tube you just created to make a little circle at the side (almost a P-shape) and sew the end near rows 17 and 18. Do not cut your yarn yet as you will use it to make a tiny cross in the circle. With your yarn still in a tapestry needle, form a vertical line and thread it through a stitch or two at the top of the circle.

Weave your needle through a stitch at the top so it is secure.

Weave your needle back through the circle until you get to the side of the circle.

Repeat the same technique as the vertical part of the cross except work horizontally, weaving the yarn across to the other side of the circle.

Tie a knot. If you still have plenty of yarn left, you can weave it to the appropriate place in the staff to sew onto the hand of the doll. Otherwise, tuck in your ends and get a new piece of gold yarn to thread through several stitches of the dolls hand and then several stitches on the staff. Tie a knot and hide any loose ends.

Shamrock

Use weight 2 green yarn and 2.25 mm hook.

R 1: ch 3. Place a stitch marker in the 2nd ch you made. In the 3rd ch from the hook complete: dc, ch 2, sl st, (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st) x 2

R 2: ch 4, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 3 sl st back down the ch (1 sl st per ch) . Sl st to the 2nd ch you made in row 1 (where your stitch marker is).

F.o. and leave a tail for sewing. Use the tail to sew the clover in the bottom corner of the gown.

The end!

Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets

You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.