St. Michael the Archangel Pattern

Materials:

• 2.75 mm hook

• 3.25 mm hook

• Yarn (I use cotton yarn, weight 4): tan (or skin color of choice), white, gray (or silver), brown, yellow (or gold), red

• Polyester Fiber Stuffing

• 2 10 mm safety eyes (Safety eyes are not recommended for small kids. You may use black thread or eyes to embroider eyes if you prefer).

• Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)

• Finishing needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends

Skills:

• Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

• Chain (ch)

• Working in rounds

• Working in a spiral

• Single crochet (sc)

• Slip stitch (sl st)

• Double crochet (dc)

• Increase (inc.)

• Decrease (in flat pieces)

• Invisible decrease (dec.) (for crocheting in the round)

• Double crochet increase (dc inc.)

• Working on both sides of a chain

• Working in front loops only and back loops only

• Color changing

• Crocheting two pieces together (you will have to make two legs and join them together with chains and sc crochets, and then continue to crochet the torso).

• Crocheting two ends together

• Sewing amigurumi parts together

• Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished doll is approximately 6.5 inches tall.

I choose to begin by chaining two and then single crochet 6 stitches in the second chain from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.

You will be switching between your 2.75 mm hook and your 3.25 mm hook depending on which part you’re completing. Be sure to verify the correct hook size before beginning each part.

You will be working in spirals (no ch 1 at the beginning and sl st at the end) unless it is indicated otherwise.

Leg (make two)

Use 2.75 mm hook and begin with tan yarn.

Lightly stuff as you go

Row 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)

R 3-13 (11 rows): 9 sc (9)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing. Create a second leg and do not finish off. Row 14 begins on the second leg.

Next you will connect both legs together with a chain of three. You will crochet on each side of the chain and continue crocheting in regular rounds as you complete the torso. If you have not connected doll legs this way before, I’d recommend reading the directions for row 14 and looking at the pictures before beginning. This isn’t very hard, but if you haven’t done it before, it might get confusing if you just begin following directions without understanding the process.

R 14: ch 3 and insert hook into the last stitch you created before finishing off on your first leg. (See the picture below). Complete 9 sc around the first leg. On one side of the three chains, complete 3 sc. Complete 9 sc. On the other side of thee chains, complete 3 sc. (24)

This picture is right after completing three chains and one single crochet connecting to your first leg. (I took out my hook so you can see better, but you can see the little loop where my hook would be.) Before continuing. Make sure you can clearly identify the three chains you just created. After you complete 9 sc all around your first leg, you will be back at this chain. Complete three single crochets in the sides of the chain labeled “1, 2, and 3.” Next, you will complete 9 sc all around the second leg, and you will reach the chain again. You will complete single crochets in the remaining sides of the chain, 4, 5 and 6.

Torso, Head, and Neck

Stuff as you go. Try not to overstuff so that it does not show through the stitches. Stuff a little extra in the neck to keep the neck and head straight, but don’t use so much stuffing that it shows a lot through the stitches. After a few rows of torso, use the tail from the first leg to sew any little holes that may have resulted when you joined the two legs.

R 15-16: 24 sc (24)

R 17: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 18-24 (7 rows): 18 sc (18)

R 25: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 26: dec. x 6 (6)

R 27: 6 sc (6)

R 28: inc. x 6 (12)

R 29: inc. x 12 (24)

R 30: (3 Sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 31-36 (6 rows): 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes or sew eyes with black yarn/thread where you wish. I insert them between rows 33 and 34, about 6 stitches apart (about 4 stitches if you only count stitches that are not covered by the eyes). Embroider nose where you wish, slightly below and between the two eyes.To do so, take a piece of yarn finishing needle and wrap around several times to create a small bump that is the nose. After I create my desired size, I tie the two ends of yarn together inside of the head to keep secure.

R 37: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)

R 38: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 39: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 40: dec. x 6 (6)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2)

Use tan yarn and 2.75 mm hook. Stuffing is not necessary.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2-11 (10 rows): 6 sc (6)

R 12: Fold arm in half so that stitches line up, crochet both halves together with three single crochets. (3)

F.o. and leave a tail. Sew arms onto the body where you see fit. I sew them in between rows 24 and 25, right before the neck begins to form

Hair

Use brown yarn and 3.25 mm hook

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 6-7: 30 sc (30)

R 8: (sc, ch 4, starting from 2nd ch from hook complete 3 sc back down chain, sc) x 15

Leave a long tail and use the tail to sew the hair onto the head.

Armor

Use 3.25 mm hook and start with gray yarn.

Crochet in rounds (not a spiral) connecting each round with a slip stitch at the end every time.

R 1: ch 21, sl st to the first ch to create a circle (make sure your chain isn’t twisted before continuing) (21)

R 2: ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 3: ch 1, 5 sc, ch 4, sk (skip) 4 stitches, 4 sc, ch 4, sk 4 stitches, 4 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 4-8 (5 rows): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 9: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x 3, connect with sl st (24)

R 10-11: ch 1, 24 sc, connect with slip stitch (24)

Switch to yellow yarn.

R 12: ch 1, in front loops only (FLO) complete 24 sc, connect with sl st (24)

R 13: ch 1, ( sc, ch 6, from 2nd ch on the hook complete 5 sc back down chain, sc) x 12, connect with sl st.

F.o. and weave in ends.

Optional: If you want the yellow dangling parts of the belt to lie more flatly, you can leave a long tail of yellow and later sew them onto the skirt.

Skirt

Next you will be crocheting the “skirt” part onto the back loops of the last gray row of armor. Get your red yarn red on your hook, and then insert in one of the back loops and create a slip stitch. Row 1 begins right after completing the slip stitch.

R 1: ch 2, complete 2 dc in the same stitch as your slip stitch, continue making 2 dc in every stitch around. In other words: (dc inc.) x 24, connect with sl st (48)

R 2: ch 2, 48 dc, connect with slip stitch. (48)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Put the armor on your doll from the feet and pull it up, placing arms in arm holes. (The side in your armor where you originally connected your 23 chains is the back side).

Wing (make 2)

Use 3.25 mm hook and white yarn.

R 1: ch 10

R 2: Start from the 2nd ch from the hook, complete 8 sc down the chain. In the last loop, complete 2 sc. Turn to work on the other side of the chain. Complete 8 sc and 2 sc in the last loop (20)

R 3: (4 sc, inc.) x 4 (24)

R 4: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 5-7 (3 rows): 30 sc (30)

R 8: Fold oval in half and match up stitches on both sides. Single crochet together with 15 single crochets. (15)

R 9: ch 1, turn, 12 sc (you are you not going all the way down, but stopping early to create the wings’ ridges)

R 10: ch 1, turn, 12 sc

R 11: ch 1, turn, 9 sc

R 12: ch 1, turn, 9 sc

R 13: ch 1 turn, 6 sc

R 14: ch 1, turn, 6 sc

R 15: ch 1, turn, 3 sc

R 16: ch 1, turn, 3 sc

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. You will have to weave your tail to the right side for sewing. Alternatively, you can tuck your tail inside your wing and get a new piece of white yarn to sew the wing to the back of your doll.

Turn your wings as shown in the picture and sew them on to the back of your doll. I choose to sew both onto the clothes and all the way onto the back of the doll’s body as well.

Shoulder Pad (make 2)

Use yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook

R 1: ch 4

R 2: From 2nd ch from the hook, complete 3 sc (3)

R 3-5 (3 rows): ch 1, turn, 3 sc (3)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing. Weave in one tail and use the other tail to sew the shoulder pads onto the shoulder areas of armor

Sword

Start in brown yarn. Use 2.75 mm hook

R 1: ch 3, from 2nd ch from the hook, complete 2 sc (2)

R 2-6 (5 rows): ch 1, turn, 2 sc (2)

Change to gray yarn.

R 7-13 ( 7 rows): ch 1, turn, 2 sc (2)

R 12: ch 1, dec. (1) (This is a regular decrease, not an invisible decrease)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Sword Handle Part

Use brown yarn and 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 7

R 2: From 2nd ch from the hook, complete 6 sc (6).

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing, and sew horizontally to the sword . Sew sword to the side of the belt. (Alternatively, you can sew the sword into one of the doll’s hands instead of sewing the hands together in a praying position).

Shoe (make 2)

Use yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (inc.) x 6 (12)

R 3- 4: 12 sc (2)

Next, chain 20 and connect to the other side of your shoe with a single crochet. There should be 5 stitches on either side of the straps, so that your strap is directly in the middle of your shoe. F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing all around the shoe and sewing the straps down onto legs.

To place the shoe on the foot, start by placing your doll’s foot through the strap. Twist the shoe all the way around so that it forms an “X” in front. Use the tail to sew the shoe and strap in place on the legs.

Lastly, with a small piece of tan yarn, sew the hands together in a prayer position. yarn through 2 or 3 stitches on one hand, and then connecting it by threading my yarn through 2 or 3 stitches on the other hand.

The end!

Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets

You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.