Penguin Pattern
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This pattern is written for a worsted penguin. Modifications for the blanket yarn version will be in red text. (Tip: For the blanket yarn version, it might be easier to weave in the tail of each part and sew parts together with similarly-colored worsted weight yarn. This is because sometimes blanket yarn is very delicate and can fall apart when sewing).
I recommend two contrasting colors for the body of your penguin: a darker color (black/dark gray) for the head and a lighter color (dark gray if you used black for the head/light gray) for the body.
Materials:
2.5 mm hook/4 mm hook
Worsted weight yarn in black/dark gray, dark gray/light gray, ivory, and orange/super bulky yarn (weight 6) in same colors
2 6 mm safety eyes/2 8 mm safety eyes
Polyester fiber stuffing
Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)
Optional: Embroidery thread (or yarn) in pink, white, and black (to embroider whites of eyes, eyebrows, and/or blush)
Skills:
Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns
Working in a spiral
Working in distinct rounds
Sewing amigurumi parts together
Basic embroidery skills
Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Increase (inc.)*
Invisible decrease (dec.)**
Double crochet (dc)
Slip stitch (sl st)
*An increase is 2 scs in 1 stitch.
** An invisible decrease is completed by following these instructions: 1. Identify the next two stitches you wish to combine into one. 2. Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch. 3. Insert your hook into the front loop of the second stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook. 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
Beak
Use orange yarn. Do not stuff. Start with a long beginning tail to sew the beak to the head later.
This will be crocheted in distinct rounds with a ch 1 at the beginning of each round and a slip stitch at the end. (If desired, you can disregard the ch 1/sl st of each round and crochet in a spiral instead after round 2.)
I like to make the beak first and then sew it onto the head while I’m still working on the head. This allows me to get proper eye placement.
R 1: ch 12, sl st to the first ch you made (12)
R 2: ch 1, 12 sc, sl st to the first sc you made (12)
R 3: ch 1, dec. x 6, sl st to the first sc you made (6)
R 4: ch 1, dec. x 3, sl st to the first sc you made (3)
F.o. and tuck/weave in the ending tail. Set beak aside for later.
Head
Start with black/dark gray (the darker of your two main contrasting colors for the body.)
For rounds 8-16, black text indicates black/dark gray yarn while blue text indicates ivory yarn.
R 1: Ch 4. Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete: 2 sc, inc. On the other side of the chain complete: 2 sc, inc. (8)
R 2: inc. x 8 (16)
R 3: (sc, inc.) x 8 (24)
R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 8 (32)
R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 8 (40)
R 6: 40 sc (40)
R 7: (4 sc, inc.) x 8 (48)
R 8: 6 sc, 3 sc, 6 sc, 3 sc, 30 sc (48)
R 9: 5 sc, 4 sc, 6 sc, 4 sc, 29 sc (48)
R 10: 4 sc, 5 sc, 6 sc, 5 sc, 28 sc (48)
R 11-12 (2 rounds): 3 sc, 6 sc, 6 sc, 6 sc, 27 sc (48)
R 13: 3 sc, (sc, inc.) x 3, 6 sc, (sc, inc.) x 3, 27 sc (54)
R 14-15 (2 rounds): 3 sc, 24 sc, 27 sc (54)
R 16: 3 sc, sc, dec., (4 sc, dec.) x 3, 3 sc, sc, dec., (4 sc, dec.) x 4 (45)
The yarn tail (where you are ending and beginning each round) marks the side of the head.
Insert eyes between rounds 13 and 14, about 8-9 stitches apart. If desired, embroider white outer edges on each eye. Sew the beak onto round 13 in between the eyes (I fold the beak so that the “seam” of the beak– where I slip-stitched at the end each round– is at the bottom where it’s the least visible). If desired, embroider blush using pink yarn in between rounds 15-16, about 2 stitches wide, and embroider eyebrows on round 11.
Round 17 is in black/dark gray yarn.
R 17: (3 sc, dec.) x 9 (36)
Stuff the head so far. Continue stuffing the body as you go.
Change to dark gray/light gray yarn (the lighter of your two main contrasting colors for the body).
R 18: (sc, inc.) x 18 (54)
R 19-23 (5 rounds): 54 sc (54)
R 24: (8 sc, inc.) x 6 (60)
R 25-27 (3 rounds): 60 sc (60)
R 28: (8 sc, dec.) x 6 (54)
R 29: (7 sc, dec.) x 6 (48)
R 30: (6 sc, dec.) x 6 (42)
R 31: (5 sc, dec.) x 6 (36)
R 32: (4 sc, dec.) x 6 (30)
R 33: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)
R 34: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 35: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
R 36: dec. x 6 (6)
F.o. and weave in the end tail.
Wing (make 2)
Use dark gray/light gray yarn (the lighter of your two main body colors). Do not stuff.
R 1: ch 2, complete 8 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (8)
R 2: inc. x 8 (16)
R 3-5 (3 rounds): 16 sc (16)
R 6: (6 sc, dec.) x 2 (14)
R 7: 14 sc (14)
R 8: (5 sc, dec.) x 2 (12)
R 9: ch 1, fold wing in half and crochet closed with 6 sc (6 sc)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew arms between rounds 18-19 of the body (at the sides of the body, slightly to the front).
Foot (make 2)
Use black/dark gray yarn (the darker of your two main contrasting colors for the body). Do not stuff.
The toes (round 8) are designed to be symmetrical (the sides are mirror images of each other). To make this round easier to follow, I broke up the pattern into bullet points.
R 1: ch 2, complete 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3-6 (4 rounds): 12 sc (12)
R 7: ch 1, fold the foot in half and crochet closed with 6 sc (6)
R 8: ch 1, turn and complete the following stitches:
1st Stitch: sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2
2nd Stitch: sl st
3rd Stitch: sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2
4th Stitch: sl st
5th Stitch: sl st, ch 2
6th Stitch: dc, ch 2, sl st
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew each foot near rounds 30-33 of the body. *
*I weave the ending tail a few rounds down before sewing. Alternatively, you can leave a short tail, weave it in, and use a new piece of yarn to sew the feet onto the body.
The end!
Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets