top of page


Join my crochet journey and enjoy free patterns!

Post: Welcome

Our Lady of Guadalupe Crochet Pattern

Updated: Apr 10, 2021


  • 2.75 mm hook

  • 3.25 mm hook

  • Yarn (I use cotton yarn, weight 4): tan/beige or skin color of choice, brown, teal, red, black, gold. (I use an acrylic yarn for the gold parts only because I like the color more than my cotton gold yarn options.)

  • Polyester fiber stuffing

  • 2 8mm safety eyes (Safety eyes are not recommended for small kids, but you may use black thread to embroider eyes if you prefer).

  • Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)

  • Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)

  • Black embroidery thread

  • Glue (I used Tacky glue)*

  • Optional: a popsicle stick or item to help apply glue onto the hair cap, blush for cheeks, pins for placing parts together before sewing


  • Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

  • Working in rounds

  • Working in a spiral

  • Color changing

  • Crocheting two pieces together (you will have to make two legs and join them together with chains and single crochet stitches, and then continue to crochet the torso).

  • Sewing amigurumi parts together

  • Creating a border

  • Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

  • Skip (sk)

  • Chain (ch)

  • Single crochet (sc)

  • Increase (inc.)**

  • Invisible decrease (dec.)***

  • Double crochet (dc)

  • Double crochet increase (dc inc.) **

  • Half double crochet (hdc)

  • Triple crochet (tr)

*I used glue to attach the hair onto the head and the stars onto the veil. Sewing these items together would also be fine if you do not have glue or wish not to use glue. I don’t recommend using glue if this doll is going to a small child.

**An increase is 2 scs in 1 stitch. A double crochet increase is 2 dcs in 1 stitch.

*** An invisible decrease is completed by following these instructions: 1. Identify the next two stitches you wish to combine into one. 2. Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch. 3. Insert your hook into the front loop of the second stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook. 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.

The finished doll is approximately 6.5 inches tall.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

I choose to begin by chaining two and then completing 6 sc starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.

We will start by crocheting the whole body and then crocheting the gown. If you wish, you can start with the dress so that you can place it on the body after completing the neck and before crocheting the head. This might be a bit easier if you’re concerned about fitting the gown over the body (I have never had any problems doing so, but it does take a bit of manipulation).

Some of the pictures of the body and one picture of the dress (before I crochet the sleeves on) are taken from another pattern, hence the color differences. However, the technique I used is the same in this pattern.

Leg (make two)

Use a 2.75 mm hook and begin with tan yarn.

Lightly stuff as you go

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)

R 3-13 (11 rounds): 9 sc (9)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing. Create a second leg and do not finish off. Round 14 begins on the second leg.

Next you will connect both legs together with a chain of three. You will crochet on each side of the chain and continue crocheting in regular rounds as you complete the torso. If you have not connected doll legs this way before, I’d recommend reading the directions for round 14 and looking at the pictures before beginning. This isn’t very hard, but if you haven’t done it before, it might get confusing if you just begin following directions without understanding the process.

R 14: ch 3 and insert hook into the last stitch you created before finishing off on your first leg. (See the picture below). Complete 9 sc around the first leg. On one side of the three chains, complete 3 sc. Complete 9 sc on around the second leg. On the other side of thee chains, complete 3 sc. (24) (See below for a picture and more detail reiteration of this process).

This is right after completing three chains and one single crochet connecting to your first leg. (I took out my hook so you can see better, but you can see the little loop where my hook would be.) Before continuing. Make sure you can clearly identify the three chains you just created. After you complete 9 sc all around your first leg, you will be back at this chain. Complete three single crochets in the sides of the chain labeled “1, 2, and 3.” Next, you will complete 9 sc all around the second leg, and you will reach the chain again. You will complete single crochets in the remaining sides of the chain, 4, 5 and 6.

Torso, Head, and Neck

Stuff as you go. Try not to overstuff so that it does not show through the stitches. I stuff a little extra in the neck to keep the neck and head straight. After a few rounds of torso, I used the tail from the first leg to sew any little holes that may have resulted when I joined the two legs.

R 15-16 (2 rounds): 24 sc (24)

R 17: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 18-24 (7 rounds): 18 sc (18)

R 25: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 26: dec. x 6 (6)

R 27: 6 sc (6)

Reminder: as you continue to crochet and stuff as you go, place extra stuffing in the neck to ensure it stands up properly. The veil will make the head a bit heavy and prone to bobbling. (Another option is to eliminate round 27. Making the neck shorter will give the head more support and will result in a slightly different appearance of your doll as well)

R 28: inc. x 6 (12)

R 29: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 30: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 31: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 32-37 (6 rounds): 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes or embroider eyes with black yarn/thread where you wish. I insert them between rounds 34 and 35, about 5 stitches apart (about 4-5 visible stitches, not including stitches covered by the eyes). Use black thread to embroider eyelashes. Embroider the nose where you wish, slightly below and between the two eyes. To do so, insert a piece of yarn in the finishing needle and wrap around several times to create a small bump that is the nose. After I create my desired size, I tie the two ends of yarn together inside of the head to keep secure. Put a small amount of blush on cheeks.

R 38: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)

R 39: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 40: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 41: dec. x 6 (6)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2)

Stuffing is not necessary. Use a 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2-11 (10 rounds): 6 sc (6)

R 12: Fold arm in half so that stitches line up, crochet both halves together with three single crochets. (3)

F.o. and leave a tail. Sew arms onto the body. I sewed them around round 24, right before the neck begins to form


Use brown yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (sc in the next stitch, ch 25, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete: (sc, inc.) x 7, 10 sc ) x 12, sl st to the next stitch*

*If row 3 is confusing, here are more detailed directions: You will be creating hair strands all the way around. To begin, complete 1 sc in the next stitch. Next, ch 25. Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, complete (sc, inc.) 7 times (over the first 14 chs). Next, complete 10 sc along the final 10 chains. Complete this sequence all the way around your hair cap for a total of 12 hair strands. Finally, complete a sl st to the next stitch in order to even out the hair cap.

F.o. and leave a tail for sewing. Center the hair on top of the head and sew the middle part (rows 1-2) onto the middle of the head.

Use sewing pins to position each strand.

Next, either glue each strand onto the head or sew each strand onto the head. If you are sewing the hair strands down, I recommend sewing down one side of each strand and up the other side, sewing strands together where necessary to hide any gaps. If you’re gluing, a small popsicle stick (or similar object) might help you apply glue into small, hard to reach places.


Use red yarn and 3.25 mm hook Check the fit of the gown around row 5 or so. If it is too big or too small, adjust your hook size and start again.

Crochet in rounds (not a spiral) connecting each round with a slip stitch at the end every time.

R 1: ch 21, sl st to the first ch to create a circle (make sure your chain isn’t twisted before continuing)

R 2: ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 3: ch 1, 5 sc, ch 4, sk (skip) 4 stitches, 4 sc, ch 4, sk 4 stitches, 4 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 4-8 (5 rows): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 9: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x 3, connect with sl st (24)

R 10: ch 1, (7 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (27)

R 11-24 (14 rows): ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to gold yarn.

R 25: ch 1, (In the first stitch: sc. In the second stitch: hdc, dc, hdc. In the third stitch: sc) x 9, connect with sl st

F.o. and weave in ends. The back side is the side with the crease where you connected your rows with a slip stitch each time. (The reason the front has fewer stitches than the back is so that the arms are naturally pushed forward a bit, making it easier for them to be pushed together for a prayer position.)

Pull the gown up on the doll, feet first.

Sleeve (make 2)

R 1: Sl st to one of the stitches on the sleeves. Ch 1. Create a circle of 8 single crochets in the arm hole: on the 4 bottom stitches (where you originally made your chains) and on the 4 top stitches (see picture below for where to place your first round of single crochets). Connect with a slip stitch.

R 2-7 (6 rows): ch 1, 8 sc, connect with sl st (8)

R 8: ch 2, (3 dc, dc inc.) x 2 (10)

F.o. and weave in the ends. Place your finger in the sleeves to stretch them out a bit, preparing them for arms to be squeezed through. Place the dress over the legs of your doll and gently tug it up. Fit arms into sleeves.

Black Tie

Use black yarn and 3.25 mm hook.

R 1: ch 35, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 2 sl st, 30 sc, 2 sl st.

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Wrap the tie around the waist (near rows 9-10 of the dress). Form a little “x” with the two ends. Weave the tail through the tie until it meets the place where the two ends intersect and sew it the tie in place. Use the remainder of the tail to sew the tie onto the dress all the way around the body.


Begin with teal yarn and a 3.25 mm hook. The veil is first worked in rounds with chaining 2 at the beginning and slip stitching to the first stitch of each round at the end. Beginning with row 4, you will begin working in rows.

R 1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, connect with sl st (8)

R 2: ch 2, 8 dc inc., connect with sl st (16)

R 3: ch 2, (dc, dc inc.) x 8, connect with sl st (24)

The remainder of the veil will be worked in rows.

R 4: ch 2, turn, 16 dc (Leave the rest of the stitches unworked.) (16)

R 5: ch 2, turn, dc inc., 14 dc, dc inc. (18)

R 6-12 (7 rows): ch 2, turn, 18 dc (18)

R 13: ch 2, turn, dc inc., 16 dc, dc inc. (20)

R 14: ch 2, turn, dc inc., 18 dc, dc inc. (22)

R 15: ch 2, turn, dc inc., 20 dc, dc inc. (24)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Create a border with a 2.75 mm hook and gold yarn.

  • With the front of the veil facing you sl st at the bottom right corner to begin the border. Ch 1. You will complete the vertical side of the border beginning with row 15 of the veil and ending after row 4, for a total of 4 rows.

  • On the top horizontal side, complete the following sequence along the 8 stitches: (In the first stitch: sl st. In the second stitch: sc, ch 2, tr, ch 2, sc) x 4

  • On the second vertical side, follow the same pattern as the first vertical side: (sc, ch 2, tr, ch 2, sc) x 12

Lastly, on the bottom horizontal side, complete a row of 24 sc. Sl st to the first sc you made and weave in ends.


I made 11 stars. Feel free to add or subtract the total number of stars based upon your preference.

Use gold yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.

R 1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sl st to the first sc you made (5)

R 2: (ch 4, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete: (sl st in the first ch, sc in the second ch, hdc in the third ch, sl st to the next stitch) x 5

F.o. and weave in ends. Arrange the stars on your veil as you wish, and either glue or sew them on.

Sew the veil onto the head. This might be a bit tricky if you glued the hair on (like I did) because the dried glue might make it difficult to weave your tapestry needle through. However, it was easy enough for me to just sew it in a few places along the hair strands (not all the way down through the “scalp”). Because it’s a loose-fitting veil, you only need to tack it down in a few spots.

Next, I sewed the bottom corners of the veil to the front of the dress. I arranged the scallops on the veil border so that they flared out more, resembling sun rays. Lastly, with a small piece of tan yarn, sew the hands together in a prayer position. Thread the yarn through 2 or 3 stitches on one hand, and then connect it by threading my yarn through 2 or 3 stitches on the other hand.

The end!

Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets

You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at

1,185 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All
Post: Blog2_Post
bottom of page