Mother Teresa Pattern

Materials:

• 2.75 mm hook

• 3.25 mm hook (If you don’t have this size, a 3.5 mm hook would work in its place too. The hair cap and clothes will just be a bit bigger/more loosely fitting)

• Yarn (I use cotton yarn, weight 4): tan, white, blue, and brown (small amount)

• Polyester Fiber Stuffing

• 2 7mm safety eyes (Safety eyes are not recommended for small kids, but you may use black thread or eyes to embroider eyes if you prefer).

• Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)

• Finishing needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)

• Optional: black thread for eyelashes

Skills:

• Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

• Chain (ch)

• Working in rounds

• Working in a spiral

• Single crochet (sc)

• Slip stitch (sl st)

• Triple crochet (tr)

• increase (inc.)

• Invisible decrease (dec.)

• Color changing

• Crocheting two pieces together (you will have to make two legs and join them together with chains and sc crochets, and then continue to crochet the torso).

• Sewing amigurumi parts together

• Creating a border

• Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

The finished doll is approximately 6 inches tall.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

I choose to begin by chaining two and then single crochet 6 stitches in the second chain from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.

We will start by crocheting the whole body and then crocheting the gown. If you wish, you can start with the dress so that you can place it on the body after completing the neck and before crocheting the head. This might be a bit easier if you’re concerned about fitting the gown over the body (I have never had any problems doing so, but it does take a bit of manipulation.

Leg (make two)

Use 2.75 mm hook and begin with tan yarn.

Lightly stuff as you go

Row 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)

R 3-13 (11 rows): 9 sc (9)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing. Create a second leg and do not finish off. Row 14 begins on the second leg.

Next you will connect both legs together with a chain of three. You will crochet on each side of the chain and continue crocheting in regular rounds as you complete the torso. If you have not connected doll legs this way before, I’d recommend reading the directions for row 14 and looking at the pictures before beginning. This isn’t very hard, but if you haven’t done it before, it might get confusing if you just begin following directions without understanding the process.

R 14: Ch 3 and insert hook into the last stitch you created before finishing off on your first leg. (See the picture below). Complete 9 sc around first leg. On one side of the three chains, complete 3 sc. Complete 9 sc. On the other side of thee chains, complete 3 sc. (24)

This is right after completing three chains and one single crochet connecting to your first leg. (I took out my hook so you can see better, but you can see the little loop where my hook would be.) Before continuing. Make sure you can clearly identify the three chains you just created. After you complete 9 sc all around your first leg, you will be back at this chain. Complete three single crochets in the sides of the chain labeled “1, 2, and 3.” Next, you will complete 9 sc all around the second leg, and you will reach the chain again. You will complete single crochets in the remaining sides of the chain, 4, 5 and 6.

Torso, Head, and Neck

(Stuff as you go. Try not to overstuff so that it does not show through the stitches. I stuff a little extra in the neck to keep neck and head straight. After a few rows of torso, I used the tail from the first leg to sew any little holes that may have resulted when I joined the two legs.)

R 15-16: 24 sc (24)

R 17: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 18-24 (7 rows): 18 sc (18)

R 25: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 26: dec. x 6 (6)

R 27: 6 sc (6)

R 28: inc. x 6 (12)

R 29: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 30: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 31: (3 Sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 32-37 (6 rows): 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes or sew eyes with black yarn/thread where you wish. I insert them between rows 34 and 35, about 4-5 stitches apart. Use black thread to embroider eyelashes. Embroider nose where you wish, slightly below and between the two eyes.To do so, take a piece of yarn finishing needle and wrap around several times to create a small bump that is the nose. After I create my desired size, I tie the two ends of yarn together inside of the head to keep secure.

R 38: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)

R 39: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)

R 40: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)

R 41: dec. x 6 (6)

F.o and leave a tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2)

Stuffing is not necessary.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

R 2-11 (10 rows): 6 sc (6)

R 12: Fold arm in half so that stitches line up, crochet both halves together with three single crochets.

F.o. and leave a tail. Sew arms onto the body. I sew around row 24, right before the neck begins to form.

Head Cap

Use 3.25 mm hook and white yarn.

R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)

R 6-8 (3 rows): 30 sc (30)

Finish with 1 slip stitch to next stitch (to cap more evenly round)

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Place the head cap centered on the head and sew it on.

Head Covering

Use 3.25 mm hook. Start with blue yarn

R 1: ch 25

R 2: Turn and starting from 2nd ch from the hook, complete 24 sc (24)

Switch to white yarn.

R 3: ch 1, turn, 24 sc (24)

Switch to blue yarn.

R 4: ch 1, turn, 24 sc (24)

Switch to white yarn.

R 5: ch 1, turn, 24 sc (24)

Switch to blue yarn.

R 6: ch 1, turn 24 sc (24)

Switch to white yarn.

R 7: ch 3, turn, 24 tr (24)

R 8: ch 3, turn, (3 tr, tr inc.) x 6 (30)

R 9-10: ch 3, turn, 30 tr (30)

F.o. and weave in ends. Place head covering on the head. Use white yarn to sew the first white stripe of the head covering on the head. Fold and sew the head covering slightly at each side.

Gown

Start with white yarn and 3.25 mm hook

Crochet in rounds (not a spiral) connecting each round with a slip stitch at the end every time.

R 1: ch 21, sl st to the first ch to create a circle (make sure your chain isn’t twisted before continuing)

R 2: ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 3: ch 1, 5 sc, ch 4, sk (skip) 4 stitches, 4 sc, ch 4, sk 4 stitches, 4 sc (21)

R 4-8 (5 rows): ch 1, 21 sc, connect with sl st (21)

R 9: ch 1, (6 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (24)

R 10: ch 1, (7 sc, inc.) x 3, connect with sl st (27)

R 11-18 (8 rows): ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to blue yarn.

R 19: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to white yarn.

R 20: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to blue yarn.

R 21: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to white yarn.

R 22: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

Switch to blue yarn.

R 23-24: ch 1, 27 sc, connect with sl st (27)

F.o. and weave in ends.

Sleeves (create one in each arm hole of your gown)

(Tip: these sleeves will be pretty tight and are a little tough to fit around the doll. I prefer them to be tight and am able to fit the sleeves over the arms with a bit of patience. However, you may choose to make your stitches with a slightly looser tension in order to make them bigger. Alternatively, you could complete one or two increases in the first row to make the sleeves 9 or 10 stitches around instead of eight.)

Use white yarn and 3.25 mm hook.

R 1: Create a circle of 8 single crochets in the arm hole: on the 4 bottom stitches (where you originally made your chains) and on the 4 top stitches (see picture below for where to place your first round of single crochets). Connect with a slip stitch.

R 2-8 (7 rows): ch 1, 8 sc, connect with sl st (8)

F.o. and weave in the ends. Place your finger in the sleeves to stretch them out a bit, preparing them for arms to be squeezed through. Place the dress over the legs of your doll and gently tug it up. Fit arms into sleeves.

Shawl

Start with white yarn and 3.25 mm hook.

R 1: ch 43

R 2: Starting from 4th from the hook, complete 16 tr, ch 8, sk 8, 16 tr (40)

R 3-4: ch 3, turn, 40 tr (40)

F. o. and weave in ends

Next, create a border of blue single crochets. There should be 40 single crochets in each long side. Create 5 single crochets in each corner, and two sets of 4 single crochets on the edge of the middle row on each short side. (see picture). Weave in ends.

Next you will place the shawl on the doll, fold it according to these directions, and sew in certain spots to secure it properly. Complete all

your sewing with blue yarn. It probably is wise to experiment with folding and placement before sewing any parts, to make sure the shawl will hang as desired.

1. Place the shawl onto your doll, with her left arm through the hole.

2. Turn your doll around. Take one end of the shawl and sew it to the dress as shown. Do this at a slight angle.

3. Take the other flap of the shawl (left) and loosely wrap it around the back of your doll as shown. Just where the blue of the two flaps meets, sew them together.

4. Take the left edge by the bottom corner (where you see my hand holding it in the last picture) and fold it back to the front of your doll. Place this corner all the way up by the top right blue part of the border in the front, and sew these two parts together.

For your reference, here is what the back of the doll should look like when you are finished).

5. Lastly, use a small amount of brown yarn to embroider a small cross on the right top part of the shawl. You are all done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I’d love to see your finished doll. Tag me on Instagram at: @lindsey_crochets

You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.