Updated: Sep 1
Thank you so much for trying my pattern! This pattern is the property of Lindsey Crochets. You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.
2.5 mm hook, 1.5 mm hook
Cotton Weight 4 Yarn: beige/tan, green, gray
Any Weight 2 Yarn: white, gold, green
Polyester fiber stuffing
Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)
Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)
Black embroidery thread
Glue (I used Tacky glue)*
Optional: Sewing pins (for placing parts together before sewing)
Also optional: I used polybeads in little nylon socks to weigh down the body so it stands up properly.
Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns
Working in a spiral
Working in distinct rounds
Working in rows
Sewing amigurumi parts together
Basic embroidery skills
Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends
Single crochet (sc)
Invisible decrease (dec.)***
Crocheting in front loops only (FLO)
Crocheting in back loops only (BLO)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Skip a stitch (sk)
*I used glue to attach the hair onto the head. Sewing these items together would also be fine if you do not have glue or wish not to use glue. I don’t recommend using glue if this doll is going to a small child.
**An increase is 2 scs in 1 stitch.
*** An invisible decrease is completed by following these instructions: 1. Identify the next two stitches you wish to combine into one. 2. Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch. 3. Insert your hook into the front loop of the second stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook. 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
I choose to begin by chaining two and then completing 6 sc starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.
Begin with 2.5 mm hook and weight 4 green yarn. Stuff as you go.
Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3: inc. x 12 (24)
R 4: 24 sc (24)
R 5: BLO 24 sc (24)
R 6-11 (6 rounds): 24 sc (24)
If you’re adding polybeads, this is a good time to take a small nylon sock, fill it with some polybeads, tie a knot, and place it inside the doll. If there is room, you can add a little stuffing to the body. Continue to stuff with polyester fiberfill as you go.
R 12: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 13: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
Change to beige yarn.
R 14: BLO inc. x 12 (24)
R 15-19 (5 rounds): 24 sc (24)
Embroider closed eyes near round 17 about 2.5 stitches apart. Each of the eyes I created is about 2.5 stitches wide (not including eyelashes). Add a nose in between and slightly below the eyes (mine is between round 16 and 17): insert a little bit of yarn into your tapestry needle and wrap around a stitch or two several times and tie your two yarn ends in the back (on the inside of the head).
R 20: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 21: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
R 22: dec. x 6 (6)
F.o. and weave in any loose ends.
Arms (Make 2)
Begin with beige yarn and 2.5 mm hook. Stuffing is not necessary.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
R 2: 6 sc (6)
Change to weight 4 green yarn.
R 3: FLO 6 sc (6)
R 4-9 (6 rounds): 6 sc (6)
R 10: Fold the arm half and close together with 3 sc (3)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms onto the body so that they stick out forward a little bit (so that you can later position and sew the arms onto the body more easily). I sewed them near rounds 11 and 12. Sew the hands in prayer position in front of the body.
Use weight 2 white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
R 1: ch 26, connect with sl st (26)
Check to see if the shawl so far will fit around the body and arms. You want it to be a snug fit, but obviously not so tight that you won’t be able to put the shawl on. You may add or subtract chains as needed, or adjust your tension or hook size as necessary.
R 2-5 (4 rounds): ch 1, 26 sc, sl st to the first sc you made (26)
F.o. and weave in loose ends.
Use 1.5 mm hook and weight 2 green yarn.
Ch 3, in the 3rd ch from the hook complete:
dc, ch 2, sl st
(ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st) x 2
ch 4, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 4 sl st*
*The final slip stitch is completed in the very first ch you created (in the same chain you created the rest of the stitches, aside from the stem.)
F.o. and either leave a long tail to sew the shamrock onto the shawl, or weave in the ends and glue the shamrock onto the shawl. After it dries, place the shawl onto the doll. For extra security, add a little bit of glue to the front and back of the shawl so that it stays in place on the doll’s body.
Use a 2.5 mm hook and gray yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 5 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (5)
R 2: inc. x 5 (10)
R 3: (sc, inc.) x 5 (15)
(ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 6 sc back down the chain, sc in the next st) x 6
(ch 5, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 4 sc back down the chain, sc in the next st) x 4
(ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 6 sc back down the chain, sc in the next st) x 5
F.o. and either leave a long tail to sew the “cap” part of the hair (rounds 1-3) onto the head, or weave in ends and glue the cap part of the hair onto the head. The shorter strands are meant to be in the front.
Using sewing pins, adjust your hair strands as desired. Use glue to attach them onto the head.
Use gray yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
R 1: ch 13, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, complete: 5 sc, ch 2, sk 2, 5 sc (12)
F.o. and either leave a long tail for sewing and sew the beard along the face beneath the nose, or weave in the tail and glue the beard along the face beneath the nose.
Use a 2.5 mm hook and weight 2 gold yarn.
After chaining 34 in round 1, check to make sure this will be a good fit for the head. Make sure both ends can meet in the back of the head. If it is too long or too short, adjust your hook size or tension accordingly. (Alternatively, you can adjust the pattern to fit the number of chains necessary to snuggly fit around the head. Make sure you have an odd number of chain stitches firstly. Secondly, subtract 5 from the number of chains. Divide this number by 2, and this will give you the appropriate number of single crochets at the start and end of each row.)
R 1: ch 34, Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 14 sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, 14 sc
R 2: ch 1, turn, 14 sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, 14 sc (33)
F.o. and either leave a long tail to sew the crown onto the head (you can sew the ends together in the back, if you wish), or weave in the ends and glue the crown along the head. If you use glue, secure the crown in place using sewing pins until it dries. Embroider a small cross onto the crown.
Use gold yarn and a 2.5 hook. Feel free to modify the length (by adding or subtracting rows) or width (by completing less or greater than 5 stitches starting in round1) of your staff, as desired.
R 1: ch 2, 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (5)
R 2-18 (17 rounds): 5 sc (5).
F.o. and leave a long tail of a few inches long. Bend the tube you just created to make a little circle at the side (almost a P-shape) and sew the end between rounds 8 and 9. Weave in any ends.
Attach the staff along the body and cradled along one arm by either sewing with piece of gold yarn, or by using glue. Similarly, attach the other arm cradled along the body. (If you use glue, I’d, once again, highly recommend using pins to keep your pieces in places as they dry. Otherwise, it is difficult to get them to stick.)
Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets .