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Crochet Chicken Pattern


Thank you so much for trying my pattern! This pattern is the property of Lindsey Peppers. You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.


Materials:

  • 2.5 mm hook

  • Cotton Weight 4 Yarn: white, red, orange

  • 2 8 mm safety eyes

  • Polyester fiber stuffing

  • Stitch markers (in 2 different colors)

  • Finishing/tapestry needle (to sew parts together, embroider nose, and weave in ends)

  • Embroidery thread in black and white, embroidery needle

  • Optional: sewing pins (to put together pieces before sewing)


Skills:

  • Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns

  • Working in a spiral

  • Crocheting amigurumi parts together

  • Sewing amigurumi parts together

  • Basic embroidery skills

  • Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends

  • Chain (ch)

  • Single crochet (sc)

  • Half Double Crochet (hdc)

  • Double Crochet (dc)

  • Triple Crochet (tr)

  • Increase (inc.)*

  • Invisible decrease (dec.)**

  • Crocheting in back loops only (BLO)

  • Slip stitch (sl st)

*An increase is 2 scs in 1 stitch.


** An invisible decrease is completed by following these instructions: 1. Identify the next two stitches you wish to combine into one. 2. Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch. 3. Insert your hook into the front loop of the second stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook. 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.


This pattern is written in US crochet terms.


I choose to begin by chaining two and then completing the necessary number of stitches starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.


Beak


I like to make the beak first and then sew it onto the head while I’m still working on the head. This allows me to get proper eye placement. If you’d like, you could also make the wattle before the head as well, sewing it below the beak before finishing the face.


Use orange yarn. Do not stuff.


R 1: ch 2, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete 4 sc (4)

R 2: (sc, inc.) x 2 (6)

R 3: (2 sc, inc.) x 2 (8)

R 4: (3 sc, inc.) x 2, sl st to the next st to even it out (10)


F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing (later).


Head:


Use white yarn.


R 1: ch 2, complete 7 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (7)

R 2: inc. x 7 (14)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 7 (21)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 7 (28)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 7 (35)

R 6: (4 sc, inc.) x 7 (42)

R 7-9 (3 rounds): 42 sc (42)

R 10: 6 sc, (sc, inc.) x 5, 10 sc, (inc., sc) x 5, 6 sc (52)

R 11-14 (4 rounds): 52 sc (52)

R 15: 6 sc, (sc, dec.) x 5, 10 sc, (dec., sc) x 5, 6 sc (42)


Insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13 about 9 or 10 stitches apart. Fold the beak in half and sew it on rounds 12 and 13 of the head. Adjust eye placement if necessary, based upon preference. If desired, use white yarn/embroidery thread to make a half circle framing the outer edge of each eye. Embroider eyebrows onto round 9 of the head.




R 16: BLO (4 sc, dec.*) x 7 (35)

*Feel free to do a regular sc decrease here if an invisible decrease through back loops only is too challenging. This part will not show on finished doll.


Stuff the head so far and continue to stuff as you go.


R 17: (3 sc, dec.) x 7 (28)

R 18: (2 sc, dec.) x 7 (21)

R 19: (sc, dec.) x 7 (14)

R 20: dec. x 7 (7)


F.o. and tuck in end.


Comb


Use red yarn.


Piece (Make 3)


R 1: ch 4, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, complete, 2 sc, inc. On the other side of the ch, complete: 2 sc, inc. (8)


R 2: inc., 2 sc, inc. x 2, 2 sc, inc. (12)


F.o. the first two pieces you make. On the final one, do not finish off, but follow directions below. This one will be referred to as piece 1.


If desired, place stitch markers indicating the first and last stitches of all 3 pieces. This helps me as I connect all 3 pieces. For each piece, I used a blue stitch marker to indicate the last (most recent) stitch of round 2 and a green stitch marker to indicate the first sc of round 2.


When connecting a piece, you will always begin by inserting your hook beneath the stitch with a green stitch marker. (Feel free to remove stitch markers as you work, if desired).


R 3: Begin by inserting your hook beneath the stitch (marked by the green stitch marker) of another piece (we will call this piece 2).




Complete 6 sc along the next 6 stitches of piece 2.

Take your final piece (piece 3) and Insert your hook beneath the stitch with the green stitch marker Complete 12 sc around piece 3.


Connect back to piece 2, inserting your hook in the first unworked stitch on this side. (If you are confused as to where to insert your hook, count 6 backwards from your final stitch that should be marked with a blue stitch marker).



Complete 6 sc along this side.


Lastly, connect back to piece 1 by inserting your hook beneath the green stitch marker.



Complete 12 sc all the way around piece 1. F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing.





Use yarn ends to sew any gaps along the top of the comb closed. Slightly stuff each piece of the comb and sew it on top of the head. My comb reached just past round 6 on both the front and the back of the head.



Wattle


Use red yarn.


R 1: ch 3, in the 3rd ch from the hook complete: dc, ch 2, sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st


F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the wattle between rounds 13 and 14 of the head, right below the beak.

Body


Use white yarn. Stuff as you go.


R 1: ch 2, complete 7 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (7)

R 2: inc. x 7 (14)

R 3: (sc, inc.) x 7 (21)

R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 7 (28)

R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 7 (35)

R 6: (4 sc, inc.) x 7 (42)

R 7: (5 sc, inc.) x 7 (49)

R 8-10 (3 rounds): 49 sc (49)

R 11: (5 sc, dec.) x 7 (42)

R 12-14 (3 rounds): 42 sc (42)


F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Use this tail to sew the body along the left over front loops on round 15 of the head.


Wing (Make 2)


Use white yarn.


R 1: ch 2, complete 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (2 sc, inc.) x 4 (16)

R 4-5 (2 rounds): 16 sc (16)

R 6: ch 1, crochet both halves closed with 8 sc (8)

R 7: ch 1, turn, (In the next st complete: sl st, ch 1, hdc, ch 1, sl st) x 8


F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing and to weave to the corner of the wing for sewing. Alternatively, tuck/weave the end in and use a different piece of white yarn to sew the wing onto the body.


Use pins to place the wing onto the body first (if desired). Sew the corner and the front edge of each wing onto the body at a slight angle, as shown below. (I experimented with different angles for the brown and white chicken.) Each wing is sewed along rounds 9-14 of the body.





Tail


Use white yarn. Round 7 is broken up into bullet points to make it easier to follow.


R 1: ch 5, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook complete: 3 sc, inc. On the other side of the ch complete: 3 sc, inc. (10)


R 2: inc., 2 sc, inc. x 3, 2 sc, inc. x 2 (16)

R 3: BLO 16 sc (16)

R 4-5 (2 rounds): 16 sc (16)

R 6: ch 1, crochet both halves closed with 8 sc (8)

R 7:

  • ch 3, turn

  • 3 tr in the next stitch

  • ch 3, sl st in the next stitch

  • ch 2, 3 dc in the next stitch

  • ch 2, sl st in the next stitch

  • ch 1, 3 hdc in the next stitch

  • ch 1, sl st in the next stitch

  • ch 1, 3 sc in the next stitch

  • ch 1, sl st in the next (final) stitch


F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing and to weave to the corner of the beginning of the tail for sewing. Alternatively, tuck/weave the end in and use a different piece of white yarn to sew the tail onto the body.


Sew the tail onto the body, attaching the leftover front loops from round 2 of the tail to rounds 7-10 of the body.



Foot (Make 2)


Because each claw is only 5 sc around, crocheting gets pretty tight once you get to rounds 6 and 7. If you are concerned about this, I recommend crocheting loosely, as the foot will not be stuffed anyways.


Once you get to crocheting the individual claws, I recommend reading all the way through before beginning. The stitches I crocheted to make the first claw are numbered in white, the second claw stitches are numbered in red, and the third claw stitches are numbered in yellow.


Use orange yarn.


R 1: ch 2, complete 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (6)

R 2: inc. x 6 (12)

R 3: (3 sc, inc.) x 3 (15)

R 4-5 (2 rounds): 15 sc (15)


For rounds 6 and 7, you will create 2 rounds of 5 sc for a total of 3 claws.


To begin round 6, I made 1 sc along each of the next 2 stitches (where 1 and 2 are marked).


Next, identify 3 stitches across from from the first 2 you just created. Rotate your piece so that the side with these 3 stitches is facing you. Bring your hook over to the stitch 3 to complete a single crochet.



Complete a single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches (marked 4 and 5 in the graphic above). You have completed round 6 for the first claw.


For round 7, complete 5 sc all the way around (5). F.o. and use tail to weave through the front loops to shut the claw closed (I weave through about every other front loop.)


Reattach yarn to a stitch to complete the 2nd claw and repeat the process. I marked in red below the stitches (and the order) I used to crochet the 2nd (middle) claw.


Finally, reattach yarn to a stitch to complete the 3rd and final claw and repeat the process. I marked in yellow below the stitches (and the order) I used to crochet the final claw.




Sew any gaps between the claws using orange yarn.



Use a new piece of yarn to sew the feet along the bottom sides of rounds 4-7 of the body.




The end!


Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets


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