Bride and Groom Bears Crochet Pattern
Updated: Mar 29, 2021
These little bears make the perfect gift for any soon-to-be couples or newly weds!

Materials:
2.25 mm hook
Yarn (I use cotton yarn, weight 4): brown, light pink, white, black
Polyester Fiber Stuffing
4 10 mm safety eyes (Safety eyes/noses are not recommended for small kids. You may use black thread or eyes to embroider eyes and nose if you prefer).
2 8 mm safety noses
Stitch marker (to keep track of rows)
Finishing needle (to sew parts together and weave in ends)
Optional but recommended: pins to place body parts together before sewing them on
Skills:
Basic understanding of how to complete amigurumi and follow patterns
Working in rounds
Working in rows
Working in a spiral
Color changing
Sewing amigurumi parts together
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Double crochet (dc)
Half double crochet (hdc)
Increase (inc.)*
Invisible decrease (dec.) (for crocheting in the round)**
Triple/treble Crochet (tr)
Triple crochet increase (tr inc.)*
Crocheting in front loops only (FLO)
Crocheting in back loops only (BLO)
Finishing off (f.o.) and weaving/tucking in ends
*An increase is 2 scs in 1 stitch. A tr inc. is 2 tr in 1 stitch.
** An invisible decrease is completed by following these instructions: 1. Identify the next two stitches you first wish to combine into one. 2. Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch. 3. Insert your hook into the front loop of the second stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook. 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished groom bear is approximately 4.5 inches tall and the bride bear is approximately 4 inches tall.
A few things before beginning:
I choose to begin by chaining two and then single crocheting 6 stitches in the second chain from the hook. Of course, you may alternatively do a magic ring if you prefer.
The directions for the ears for both bears and the bowtie (groom) and the bow (bride) are the same. I simply copied the directions for each bear to make things flow better as you go.
The bear and parts, unless otherwise clarified, are worked in a spiral (no slip stitching and chaining at the beginning of each round).
Assembly directions for all the bears’ parts and accessories are at the very end. It also is fine to sew on these parts as you go if you do not want to keep track of all these little parts
Groom:
Head and Body
Begin with brown yarn.
Do not stuff your head or put safety eyes in until you are instructed to do so. This will guarantee proper alignment of the face with the tux.
Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook) (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc.) x 6 (36)
R 7-13 (7 rounds): 36 sc (36)
R 14: (4 sc, dec.) x 6 (30)
R 15: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)
R 16: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 17: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
The head is completed. Continue to make the attached body. Continue to stuff as you go.
For rounds 18-29, red indicates color change to white yarn. Black text means complete these parts with black yarn for the remainder of this “Head and Body” segment.
Change to black yarn to begin round 18.
R 18: FLO inc. x 3, inc. x 4, inc. x 5 (24)
At this point, you will insert the eyes. As you choose your placement, keep in mind the white part of the tux should line up with the face. Place the eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 9 stitches apart (or 7 visible stitches, not covered by the eyes). The nose will be between rounds 11 and 12, spaced evenly between the eyes. Inserting the backs of the eyes will take some manipulation since you have crocheted quite a bit of fabric and have decreased to only 12 sc at one point. I scrunched the head and pushed the part of the fabric where I inserted each eye close to the opening. This allows me to more clearly see when I place the back onto the safety eye. Then I repeat this for the nose and the other eye. Stuff the head and continue to stuff as you go.



R 19: (3 sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3 (30)
R 20: 12 sc, 2 sc, 16 sc (30)
R 21: 13 sc, sc, 16 sc (30)
R 22-25 (4 rounds): 30 sc (30)
R 26: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)
R 27: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 28: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
R 29: dec. x 6 (6)
F.o. and weave in any loose ends.
Ear (make 2): Start with light pink yarn. R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (or mr with 6 sc) (6) R 2: inc. x 6 (12) R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18) Change to brown yarn. R 4: 18 sc (18) R 5: Fold in half and single crochet both ends together (9) F.o., and leave a long tail for sewing.
Arm (make 2):
Start with light pink yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)
Change to black yarn.
R 3: 9 sc (9)
Change to brown yarn.
R 4: FLO 9 sc (9)
F. o., stuff lightly, and leave a long tail for sewing.
Leg (make 2):
Start with light pink yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (or mr with 6 sc) (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
Change to black yarn.
R 3: 12 sc (12)
Change to brown yarn.
R 4: FLO 12 sc (12)
R 5: 12 sc (12)
F. o., stuff lightly, and leave a long tail for sewing.
Hat
Use black yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4: BLO 18 sc (18)
R 5-7 (3 rounds): 18 sc
R 8: FLO 18 hdc
Optional: slip stitch to the first stitch of round 8 you created to even out the hat brim.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. Roll the brim (row 8) up.
Bow Tie Use black yarn. Row 1: ch 8, starting from the 3rd ch from the hook, complete 6 hdc. Finish off and leave a long tail. Use the tail to weave your yarn to the middle using your tapestry needle and wrap around the middle several times. Tie tightly and leave a long tail. Use this end to sew your bow to the neck of your bear (either now or at the end when you assemble your bear).
Bride:
Head and Body
Stuff as you go. Begin with brown yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3:(sc, inc.) x 6 (18)
R 4:(2 sc, inc.) x 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc.) x 6 (36)
R 7-13 (7 rounds): 36 sc (36)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11 about 9 stitches apart (about 7 visible stitches shown, not covered by eyes). Insert safety nose between rows 11 and 12, spaced evenly between eyes. Of course, you can choose different eye and nose placement based on preference.
R 14: (4 sc, dec.) x 6 (30)
R 15: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)
R 16: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 17: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
The head is completed. Continue to make the attached body. Continue to stuff as you go.
Change to white yarn.
R 18: FLO inc. x 12 (24)
R 19: (3 sc, inc.) x 6 (30)
R 20-21 (2 rounds): 30 sc (30)
R 22: BLO 30 sc (30)
R 23-25 (3 rounds) 30 sc (30)
R 26: (3 sc, dec.) x 6 (24)
R 27: (2 sc, dec.) x 6 (18)
R 28: (sc, dec.) x 6 (12)
R 29: dec. x 6 (6)
F.o. and weave in loose ends.
Ear (make 2):
Start with light pink yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: inc. x 6 (12)
R 3: (sc, inc.) x 6 (18)
Change to brown yarn.
R 4: 18 sc (18)
R 5: Fold in half and single crochet both ends together (9)
F.o and leave a long tail for sewing.
Arm (make 2):
Start with light pink yarn.
R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook (6)
R 2: (sc, inc.) x 3 (9)
Change to brown yarn.
R 3: 9 sc (9)
Change to white yarn.
R 4: FLO 9 sc (9)
F. o., stuff lightly, and leave a long end for sewing.
Leg (make 2): Start with light pink yarn. R 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6) R 2: inc. x 6 (12) Change to brown yarn. R 3: 12 sc (12) Change to white yarn. R 4: FLO 12 sc (12) R 5: 12 sc (12) F. o. stuff lightly, and leave a long end for sewing.
At this point (after completing the bride bear’s head, body, ears, and limbs, I chose to advance to the assembly section above to sew on the limbs and ears. This is because it’s easier to center the legs before making the skirt of the dress.
Skirt
Use white yarn.
Make a slip knot around your hook (just like you normally do when beginning each part). Next, turn your bear to the back side and slide your hook beneath one of the front loops from round 22. Round 1 begins right after this step You will be crocheting the skirt on these front loops all the way around. (Note: You want to crochet with the head facing you if you care about the “right” side of the fabric showing).
R 1: ch 3, (4 tr, tr inc) x 6, connect with sl st to the top of the first triple crochet (36)
(Your first triple crochet will be in the same stitch that you just slip stitched into to attach the yarn)
R 2: (In the first stitch: hdc, dc, hdc. In the second stitch: sl st) x 18 (If you prefer, you can ch 1 at the beginning and then connect with a slip stitch at the end).
F.o. and weave in ends.
Bow
Use white yarn.
Row 1: ch 8, starting from the 3rd ch from the hook, complete 6 hdc.
Finish off and leave a long tail. Use the tail to weave your yarn to the middle using your tapestry needle and wrap around the middle several times. Tie tightly and leave a long end. Use this end to sew your bow to the head of your bear where you wish (either now or at the end when you assemble your bear)
Assembly
Fold ears slightly so that they are rounded and decide where you would like them placed upon head. I put my yarn tail in my tapestry needle and inserted it between rounds 6 and 7, went beneath the stitches and pulled the tapestry needle back up between rounds 10 and 11. I thread the yarn through the other end of my ear, pull to tighten a little and then sew the bottom of the ear alongside the head. (For the groom’s bear, keep in mind that you will need to fit the hat on top of the head. Therefore you won’t want the ears sewn too closely to the top of the head.)
Sew arms near rounds 18-20 at the sides of the body, very slightly towards the front side.
Sew legs facing forward, about 1-2 stitches apart, near rounds 24-27.




Sew the remaining parts on each of your bears: the hat and bowtie for the groom and the bow for the bride where desired.
The end!
Thanks for trying my pattern! I’d love to see your finished result on Instagram. Tag me at @Lindsey_Crochets


You may not copy or distribute any part of this pattern. You are welcome to sell the finished product, but please credit Lindsey Crochets as the pattern’s creator. Find me at Instagram at @lindsey_crochets and at Facebook.com/Lindseycrochets.